Throughout our nation’s history, the United States has greatly benefited from the French: The Statue of Liberty, Braille, the art of Claude Monet, and (of course) Chardonnay! Chardonnay is the most popular varietal planted and consumed, yet there still exists a vast population of wine drinkers who are card-carrying members of Club ABC (Anything But Chardonnay).
Occasionally these people will half-heartedly pick up a glass of White Burgundy from France, but they cannot bear the thought of a California Chardonnay. I beg to disagree with this policy, but I can understand the reluctance to California Chardonnays, considering the stereotypes surrounding it. However, the time has come to dismiss a couple of these stigmas, so we can finally step out of the White Burgundy comfort zone and into the adventurous world of California Chardonnay.
The first stigma of the California Chardonnay concerns the location of the vineyard. The moderate climate and terroir of the Burgundy region of France differs from the stereotype of sunny and hot California. Chardonnay grapes that are planted in a warm climate ripen to a light and fruity treat or (with oak influence) a heavy and buttery libation. These very fruity or heavy “New World” Chardonnays are praised by many wine consumers, but they are surprising to someone who is expecting a White Burgundy.
But since when has winemaking been so black and white? Although much of the vineyard acreage in California is in valleys, there are also many coastal mountains and vineyards, such as Regan Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains, which provide acidity and minerality to the grapes. Much like the terroir in Burgundy, these coastal appellations have cooling influences and low yields. Far from the stigma that California’s climate cannot produce complex Chardonnay, the range of terroir in California gives winemakers different options for structure and flavor profiles.
When planted in cooler climates, Chardonnay develops a high acidity level, giving the winemaker a complex structure to work with and build on. The acids (in synergy with the tannins) can be developed and softened throughout the primary fermentation in the barrel (a.k.a. barrel fermentation) and malolactic conversion. As a secondary fermentation, ML can bring rich flavors and aromas to the wine and greatly contributes to the finish and mouthfeel. While some Wine Chardonnays can become butterballs, others are complex, well-balanced and food-loving wines.
The other stigma of the California Chardonnay is the amount of oak used for aging the wine. Depending on the desired outcome of the wine, a winemaker will use no, partial, or 100% oak. More than one winery in California uses 200% new oak.
Chardonnay fermented in stainless steel without barrel aging tends to be fresh and crisp, unlike a vanilla and buttery Chardonnay aged mostly in oak. Many wine consumers rejoice over such a concoction, but others seek balance and avoid what they feel is “over-oaked.”
However, it is not as simple as “to oak, or not to oak.” Depending on the acidity of the Californian grape and the desired finished product, winemakers must decide how they would like to use oak. Chardonnay grapes from the warmer climates of California often have a low acidity, so softening the tannins by aging it in oak for an extended period of time could turn it into a boring wine with no structure and even less aging potential. To avoid this, some wineries choose to play up the fruit by not “mashing” it with oak or by capturing it in the bottle at a younger, fresher stage.
However, much like the White Burgundy, Chardonnays from California’s cooler climate regions have a high acidity and benefit from softening the tannins in oak. This is when the winemakers must decide how much of an “oakiness” they want.
For your quarterly selection, BARGETTO’s 2005 Santa Cruz Mountains Reserve Chardonnay, we used only high quality new or neutral oak barrels, with approximately 25% new French and American oak, and 75% one- and two-year-old barrels.
A teabag placed in a glass of hot water will turn the water into tea. That same teabag placed into another cup of hot water would tint the water, but not turn it into tea. Such is the distinction between using new and neutral barrels to age Chardonnay. A new barrel will produce a very oaky and fragrant Chardonnay, and a neutral one will suggest oak tones while keeping the characteristics of the varietal. These methods of using (or not using) oak leave much of the final product to the manipulation of the winemaker.
While aging this Chardonnay, we used the traditional French method of batonage, which entails hand stirring each barrel with a wand in order to resuspend the lees (sediment). Two things happen as a result of this: first, the contact of the lees to the wine promotes the malolactic fermentation of the wine in the barrel, and thus softening the wine. Secondly, it is a very natural method of further complexing and stabilizing the wine. The result is a smooth, full-bodied wine with a touch of oak and toasty, mineral-kissed fruit.
White Burgundies are often amazing, and they are always a safe bet on an unfamiliar wine list. Does that mean Chardonnay winemakers in California should strive to imitate their French counterparts? Why would we do such a thing?
We have the ability to make Chardonnay in all forms and capabilities, given the variations in terroir and the accessibility to different oaks from around the world. We can use the long winemaking history and methods of the French and apply them to all of the excitement and experimentation in California.
In a few words, if you’re not trying California Chardonnays, you’re missing out! Still not convinced? Try a glass of your 2005 Santa Cruz Mountains Reserve Chardonnay—one sip will leave you saying “Oh, La La!”
